How To Teach Your Dog Not To Pull On The Leash, EVER! – Professional Dog Training Tips
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How To Teach Your Dog Not To Pull On The Leash, EVER! – Professional Dog Training Tips

Yes. Good work. Good. Yes. Good boy. What if I told you that there was a simple
way that you could teach your dog to stop pulling on the leash?
In this video instructor, Steve is going to show you the simple
steps to stop that leash pulling fast. I’m Ken Steepe. I’m Steve Walsh.
Welcome back to McCann Dogs. Every single week here
in our training facility, we help more than 500 dog owners who
are just like you to overcome their dog training challenges. So if this
is your first time on the channel, make sure you hit that subscribe button
so that we can help you to have a well behaved for like at family member. Now we often spend a ton of time with
our young dogs teaching them to walk at our left hand side. But I also want my young dog to know that
even if he’s not at my left hand side, even if he’s just hanging out with me,
that he shouldn’t pull on the leash. And we’re going to take a few
minutes now to teach little final. Here are a few steps to build a little
bit more value for me and teach him not to pull on the leash ever. No. Often
the question is, what’s the difference? Why does it matter if my dog understands
not to pull in the lazy money? Apparently our tale is
quite fun right now. I’m having my dog understand that they
shouldn’t pull on the leash is very handy when I’m, I’m maybe just around the house or even
around the neighborhood talking to a friend. If I happen to
take a couple of steps, say buddy okay with me and move
and want to talk to even you guys, he knows that he shouldn’t pull on the
leash and he understand there’s a little bit value from moving with me if
I move to the left or the right. He understands that he should just
kinda hang out. Go ahead, boy. Yes. Excellent job. So he’s really starting
to get a good understanding of this, but I want to go back and show you the
steps of how we got to this point. Now, it may seem like final
knows that’s really, really well and he’s starting to get
a really good understanding of it, but I’ve spent a lot of time
doing some of the basics again, letting them know first and foremost that
there’s some value for me not only for me and my person and my
striking personality, but also some great rewards and
some stuff that he’s really, really interested in. Okay. I spend
a lot of time rewarding my dog, reinforcing the fact that I’m actually
here. Anytime I tend to give him a treat, he is generally pointed towards me. I am delivering that food from up
high near my face down towards him. He’s not looking elsewhere in the room
and I’m putting food in his face or I’m not just taking food out of my bait
poach and delivering it to his face. Really letting them understand that
really good things come from here because final is starting to understand that
good things come from me and I have some value to him now he’s what? I’m going to start to add a little bit
of a little teeny bit of motion to really help him make a choice. And I’m going
to help him make a right choice. And the right choice I’m looking for is
for him to simply not pull on the leash. That doesn’t mean he has
to stand, sit or lie down. He just has to keep the leash loose.
Now when you have a busy puppy, that’s a pretty tall order and I know
you’re probably shaking your head saying that’s not gonna happen, but
here’s how we’re going to do it. We are going to get a little bit of
food in our hands. And when I do this, I’m going to encourage you to actually
move in a manner that moves your dog away from your left hand side. They can be anywhere as long as
they don’t pull on the leash. I’m going to start by giving him a
command. Now I say with me, you can say, stay close. You could say whatever you
like and I’m going to take one step. I’m going to take one step
and I’m going to pause. And as long as he pauses with me, I’m
going to simply say yes and reward him. The nice thing is he figures out pretty
quickly that staying with me gets the tree. So it looks like this with
me. Yes. Good boy with me. Yes. Good boy with me. Yes. Good boy with me. Yes. Good boy. So you notice by moving in a manner
that encourages his focus by pretty much either backing away or
moving side to side a, it’s easier for him to be right and be, it’s easier for me to keep that
reinforcement focused on me. After I’ve spent some time
taking one step at a time, I’m going to start to move a little bit
more. Now I know what you’re thinking. You’re going to start to move all over
the place and think your dog understands it. I still need to break it into little
bits to help my dog be successful. So in my mind, two or three steps maximum and then I
pause and the pause allows my dog to do one of two things. Either to pause with me or to
pull on this leash. Now he let us, he pulled on leash to that
side. I didn’t say anything. I just stuck my hand on the
leash and, gave a little bump, bump bump on that leash until he
checked back in with me. Okay. And I just waited a second. I didn’t praise him yet because
he hadn’t checked in with me. I want my dog to know that the value
is here and if you pull on the leash, there’s just a little
mild on consequences, which is just some bumps on that
leash. So we’re going to go on. Oh, he’s pulling again. So here’s what it
looks like. A little bump, bump, bump. Hi buddy. That’s better. Good job.
Yes. Now I can. Yes. In feed him. The hardest part about
teaching my dog not to pull, and the leash is being conscious to
address it every time the dog does. I’m building some value for
them not pulling on the leash, but if he does and not waiting until
he’s pulled away to go see a dog. And it’s a really, really big
fix. It’s a quick little fix, a quick bump on the least. He regained his focus on me and then
I can praise him. Good boy. Good job. Now I’m going to try
those couple of steps. I’ve got a little food in my hand again,
but it’s not on his nose to start. It’s up out of the way to help him make
a choice. He ready? Good boy with me. One, two. Yes. Good boy. Good job. I could
take out another treat. Try it again. One, two. Yes. Good boy. Maybe I moved forward a step
with me. Yes. Good boy with me. Yes. Good boy buddy. You know, you
notice he was going to sit there. That’s fine. I didn’t ask him to sit.
His only job is not to pull on the leash. Now after a little bit of that work, you can see that vinyl is really
starting to understand this. He is understanding that his
job is not to pull on the leash, even though he’s hanging out with me here. He’s being conscious to
not pulling the leash. I’m going to make things a little bit
harder so that I can show you guys how to fix this kind of thing. Okay.
You’re not really pulling, but there’s some tension there. So I’m going to set up a couple of things
and we’re gonna work through that now because he started to get
an understanding of it. I need to now prove it through different
things that may cause him to pull on the leash. You know, I’ve
got some great toys here. He seems interested in those and I also
have this little container with food and you remember me remember this container
of food from our leave it video. I’m going to put these down on the
ground now I’m going to be very specific about where I put them and you can
see he’s quite interested in these. I’m going to put them fairly far
away. My leash is a six foot leash. I’m going to make sure,
first and foremost, he can’t reward himself
for going for those toys. And we’re going to go to this because
he’s really excited right now. Now I’ve put these distractions down
on the ground pretty strategically. I’ve placed them far enough away
that my dog can’t get to them, but yet still close enough that they’re
interesting to my dog now. Fine, I’ll sit. I’m going to have him sit
for a second while I talk to you guys. Here’s what I’m going to do. I’m going to take the exact
same approach I’m getting. You get a little food in my hand. I’m going to give him that
little whiff me command. I’m going to take a step maybe to my left
this time and I’m just going to pause. As long as he pauses with me, you better believe I’m going to
quickly yes and reward again, maintaining that focus on me by
rewarding from my person down to his. Okay. Here’s the other
side of the coin though. If my dog decides to go and
pull on leash adds, any tension, I’m simply gonna turn and
face him and with my leash, Shannon has his head level. I’m just gonna add some pulses on the
leash until he turns and looks at me and let me go to praise him because I want
him to know what he’s looking at me and moving towards me. Good things happen.
However, the moment the leash goes tight, I had some from pulses on the leash
and we continue on from there. Like anything else, if my dog is making lots of mistakes
and pulling and pulling and pulling, I need to move further away from those
distractions to help my dogs be correct. My goal is to teach my dog,
not have the makeup make, make mistake after mistake. So here’s
what’s going to look like. Okay. He shifted positions, so I’m going
to go this way though now. Okay. So I’ve got food in my hand
with me. Yes. Good boy. I know he made an excellent choice
there. I actually going to reject pot. Reward him with two or three
treats. Good boy. Good job with me. [Inaudible] Good boy. Yes. Good job. I’m gonna make
this a little harder again with me. [Inaudible] Good boy. Yes. Oh, you’re
being a superstar right now. Hi, gotcha! Yes, I did. So perfect.
I moved to this toy. He went, Hey, a new toy. I’m going to pull up
my leash. I didn’t say anything. I’m not yelling or screaming. A few quick pulses on the leash and he
instantly turned and then I praise him. So I’m going to go right back to that
toy now and see if we can be a little bit more successful with me.
Yes. Good boy. Excellent boy. Good job this way. Good job. Where are ya? Good boy with me. Well, little pulse in the lease cause they
dropped the treat. Good job buddy. And that can happen. You
can drop a piece of food, you can do anything like
that. That gets the attention. The dogs need to learn that
if that lease goes tight, there’s just a quick little consequence
that gets them back on track. What exactly is the expectation with this? How do I know if my dog’s
not pulling on leash? Because if the dog’s learning
it and you’re not sure of it, it’s important that we help you with
that. My expectation is that my dog, okay buddy, move with me. But you see how this clip
is hanging straight up and
down with just a little bit of extra Slack in that
leash. That’s what I expect. If there’s any sort of tension, the
cup starts to move in the leash, which is going to in a second right
here. But I got you. Yes I did. That was a perfect example of a
little tension bump, bump bump. Good boy with me. Yes, good
boy. Excellent. Good job. I’m not waiting until he’s pulled and
pulled me over to something else and rewarded himself for pulling. I am also definitely not going
to let leash out as he pulls. I’ve set my leash length. I’m teaching him that here is
where all the good stuff happens. As long as that clip hang straight
up and down, you rewarded for it. The moment there’s any tension,
I simply address it. But again, it’s my job to help him be successful
so he understands what his job is. Finally, you can see us starting to get a pretty
good understanding of what his job is in terms of keeping the leash loose. But
I can tell you that consistency is key. Every time the leash is
attached to your dog, if you’re conscious that the dog is moving
with you and not pulling on the leash and also rewarding them for
not pulling on the leash, that will start to be
their default behavior. And the more I let them rehearse
doing things I don’t want to, the more they’re going to
you promote what you permit. I like to keep that in my mind. If
you permit them to pull on the leash, they’re going to continue to. Now,
if you have the same expectations, instead of just doing them in the living
room, do them on the front driveway, the front walkway, add distractions to help your dogs be
successful in spite of those distractions. Now having your daughter go understand
that they shouldn’t pull on the leash is a really valuable life skill. That is also very different though than
teaching my dog to walk on my left hand side. And if you’re interested
in learning what that, click that card right here. This
is your first time on the channel. Make sure you hit that subscribe button.
Okay, final, get in, but let’s go.

About James Carlton

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100 thoughts on “How To Teach Your Dog Not To Pull On The Leash, EVER! – Professional Dog Training Tips

  1. We've had 8 dogs over the years and lessons have improved all of them . You have a Border collie type there whose primary drive is to work ,for you mainly . Spaniels ,retrievers fall into this category. We have a Border Terrier who on the lead is good ,right up until prey ,or the smell of it arrives. 70% of her head is centered on scent finding . She wins obedience comps in class ,but the sight or smell of deer and adios! You can train a dog all you like and certain breeds will "look in ". Dogs that have a strong hunting instinct "look out" and are far harder to override the instinct that would keep them alive.

  2. Will definitely try this out, however this might be good for content making and a good informative video but it's not very practical. You have an already fairly well behaved dog in a safe environment, not to mention a submissive breed that enjoys following commands. It would be much better to see a badly behaved dog with real life distractions not boring toys on the ground in the gym. Remember people who search these vids are owners who are desperate for help. My dogs do well in a safe zone but introduce real life triggers on a walk and they pick and choose when to heed to commands.

  3. I challenge you with my 2 year old male black labrador Bas … he's a big guy, into canicross and canitrail with him for a year now … did some competition … plenty of races … during the sport he behaves like a trained commando … but when in public on a day we don't train or race … he pulls like a mothafucka … and the guy is strong … 38kg lean muscle.

  4. My dog is 1.5 years old and is amazing inside and in controlled environments, even when around purposefully placed distractions. Once we get outside he pulls nonstop and literally forgets all training he did inside. I have a Korean Jindo, which are known to be tough to train. Do you have any suggestions on dealing with that?

  5. I have a 18 month old pit lab. He’s a sweet dog but just doesn’t have any manners. And not very calm with strangers. Is it too late for me to get him trained?

  6. The dilemma I have is we live in a city with a few grass patches or trees here and there. She often pulls towards the patches and sometimes it’s legitimate (she needs to go potty) and most times she just wants to sniff. Is there a way for me to get her to indicate to me when it’s just a potty break so I can train her out of sniffing at every patch on a longer walk? As it is, I stop permitting it after she has relieved herself I use the call “touch” and “here” – pointing down to the ground next to me to recall her then reward her. She also loves to snatch leaves and things up off the ground if we are relaxed walking. I constantly need to say “leave it” or “no” when she does this but it doesn’t work as well as when I am directly commanding her and have her full attention on me the whole time- will she eventually be able to relax while walking with me, is there anything I’m missing or is there something that would be helpful for me to do? I’ve trained her to walk on my right as I already trained our other dog to walk on my left. Thank you!

  7. Your dog's jumping on you. It means he doesn't respect you, so that's a very unacceptable habit, especially in rainy weather, you'll become quite dirty

  8. Of course you guys are using treats. As a dog trainer, I know treats are the one of the worst ways to teach commands/basic behaviors consistently…key word *consistently*. It’s useful, but in real world situations it’s not helpful whatsoever. Leash pressure and verbal rewards/positive praise are more helpful. There’s other methods too, but different strokes for different folks.

  9. What about older dogs? We adopted an older Jack Chi and she’s mostly good until there’s another dog around. What’s the best way to break this habit other than just constantly picking her up? 😆

  10. B.S. You couldn't carry enough food to teach my dog  NOT to pull on the leash.Where you are now in a empty room, sure any dog will NOT pull. take it outside with other dogs, cats, you name it. & it's a different ball game. LIKE I said B.S.!!!!!!!!!!!

  11. Seeing people talk about how certain distractions are too much for their dogs. All my dogs have had TONS of drive, especially prey drive, as well as interest for other dogs (play drive setting in). These have been their absolute biggest distractions. For the current dog it's still something I'm working on. Anyway, it's really important to scale up the distractions slowly. Work with longer distances and smaller distractions first and slowly work your way up. Don't be afraid to take a step back if you need to. Now you can't control the environment in real life and that's okay, you can however control what you choose to do in the situation. If a situation is way too much for the dog I just try to get out of it, it won't make a good training session anyway. Another thing that's important is the PERSON. You have to stay perfectly calm and confident yourself. Do you get nervous when seeing a cat or another dog? Then that will contribute a lot to what the dog will feel.
    (Also for the folks saying their dog don't like treats, not all dogs do. You'll have to find another motivator good enough to work for.)

  12. Stop pulling on leash? I trained Chesapeake Bay Retriever gun dogs for decades, and you stop leash pulling with a choker collar. Period. Takes maybe three tries max for the dog to get it forever. Gun dogs need to listen and require just one command. And puppies learn very fast. Ok all you bleeding hearts, cry about chokers. When you have a Field Trial champion, let me know.

  13. My dog doesn't care about any type of food when we are walking. She pulls and I cannot walk her anymore. My hubby has to walk her since she is over 100 pounds. She walks fine in the back yard but when she knows shes going out the front door . That's where the problem lies.. My other dog LOVES any kind of treats. He was easy to train with treats,.. Walks great, knows his basic commands. As long as food is involved he's there LOL . Sooooo how do I do this without treats?

  14. The dog is doing this for the treats which is ok to a point and in maybe the beginning of training , but by gradually substituting the treat reward with a verbal praise and a pat will be healthier for the dog .

  15. Any advice?:
    My dog is great on and off the lead, When in a field alone.
    Ever since we got him at 8 weeks old, the first walk a month later, he just doesn’t seem to get on with dogs.
    He Growls and is aggressive and we have tried socialising him but he just won’t have any of it.
    It makes it hard to walk him as every time we see another dog I need to restrain him and it’s embarrassing.
    P.S. he loves humans though so I don’t get it? Any advice?

  16. the answer isn't to feed the dog and induce a Pavlovian response…you simply have to have the dog respect you…a leash is a means of communicating…not a means of control…nor a sign of food.

  17. Geez! My German Shepherd great at homes. Somedays she's great out too! Somedays we have a beat down love hate relationship.

  18. With an Airedale, he will deliberately misbehave so that when you correct him he gets a treat. He's figured out he gets more treats that way.

    Also the food pouch is a glowing orb to his nose and will have his attention. Training treats can be counter-productive, a kind word works better. An Airedale's attention should not be concentrated on you but on your surroundings, his senses are like radar, scanning for danger (and prey), they are natural guards; he knows perfectly well where you are and what you're doing. Tugging on the lead would work if it didn't teach an Airedale to tug on the lead and they don't like their collar pulled. Given they're rather strong this can turn into a wrestling match. The choke chain.

  19. The dog might be an animal and your pet BUT still they should not be used like some tool without personal will or any wildness in them. They deserve to be treated with dignity and respect. This is how every animal should be treated for every living thing got at least some sort of emotions in it.

  20. Thats a good thing you walk a dog an they pull i pull back an let them pull my weight it condition them. Then again i have extremely hiper dogs pitbulls love it

  21. this training is extremely hard with a Siberian Husky since they were bred to basically pull things. SO you have to train them out of their breeding. I've gotten to the point where my dog doesn't pull 100% of the time which seems to be as far as I can go.

  22. I thought I heard him say "I'll should you from the start of how he trained the dog". So I watched and he is to me showing only the end result.

  23. Are there breeds that are harder than other to train like that? How about a beagle? They were bred to only listen to their nose lol

  24. Is there a way to do this with a high energy dog without things getting robotic? I can't find a current trainer that focuses on this.

  25. What should I do to make a young dog gnaws into everything and licks everything?
    If the leash hangs in front of him, he'll bite in that too. It's a young labrador.

    Anything to help them with their milk teeth?

  26. Will this sort of training work when a dog is wearing a harness? My dog is a small breed that's prone to tracheal collapse, so I don't feel it would be safe for her to have a leash attached to her collar, especially since she still pulls like crazy. The last time we tried attaching the leash to her collar, she pulled so hard that the force of it actually tightened the collar around her neck and we had to immediately take it off to loosen it again!

  27. I had to take a dog whose owner was going to take him to the shelter. He's a hound. A great dog but pulls so hard he will get up on his hind legs and tip toe to get to what he wants. It's insane. I'm not that young anymore and it's really tough. He's 2 and very strong. Ugh. I am trying this method but it depends on the situation – then he just blows it. I hope this works.

  28. I have a 3 year old staffy, that pulls on the leash. I have trained him not to pull but he only listens inside or in the garden. Whenever i get out he is not focused, nor he wants any treats. I have tried a range even cooked chicken and he just spits it out. Any advice on what i can do to further train him?

  29. How does this work with enrichment? E.g. walking the dog with a longer leash that allows them to sniff or explore a few meters around you (which allows their mind to be busy, and use their noses)? Will they still learn that they're allowed to sniff but within the leash boundaries?

  30. Funny, you're the only other person I've come across that uses "With Me!" as a command for the dog to accompany. Great, now I do't have to retrain the dog 😀

  31. Interesting placement of the treat bag…

    I can imagine walking passed a mother and her children and trying to calm my dog down with a treat.

  32. My dogs all learned the meaning of Come, Sit, Down, Heel and Stay.

    There are a couple of thing that really really bother me with how you train dogs.

    1. You use food as a constant reward. The dog is focused on your hand and pocket where the food is. They aren't looking at your face, they hardly hear your voice.

    2. The dog needs to remain sitting, until YOU say "Down". Not when they feel like not sitting anymore.

    3. The model of training I was taught when getting a dog to "Stay with me" or "Heel" – not pull on the lead – was to: a) simply turn 180 degrees and tell them to "Stay with me"; or or "Heel" or, b) give a very firm jerk on the collar (NOT a stupid harness like you see too many people using) saying a very firm "No jerking – stay with me" or "No – Heel"!

    Simple commands given consistency backed up with huge praise – NEVER EVER "treats" or food – resulted in dogs that adored me and knew their place in the world.

    Military and police K-9 dogs are NOT trained with food. Those who train seeing-eye dogs NEVER EVER use treats or food either.

    All domesticated animals need a purpose and a place in the hierarchy.

    Sure, your method "works", but I know from experience that dogs truly integrate their training when given praise and accountability.

  33. The easiest way is to adopt an adult dog who's already trained. Save a dog and yourself a lot of heartache. Greyhounds need homes, and are typically very well trained.

  34. This dog and mine I swear are twins! What kind of dog is this?! I got mine from a rescue and they had no idea what breed!

  35. How would you change this training method for a young show dog that you don't want turning to face you or looking at you whilst they're keeping a slack leash?

  36. Doesn't work on my huskies. Guess I'll just take advantage of their pulling power and get a radio flyer to let them pull me around.

  37. Love this technique for the most part. I would love to see using something other than the bumping of the leash. I think some people would progress that to actual hard leash pops. I love seeing the different ways to teach something so difficult. Thank you!

  38. What kind of treats do you guys use for training? It's been hard with my boxer puppy because he doesn't like any of the treats I've gotten him so far…

  39. We just adopted a black lab mix. She is 1 y.o. acts like she is on crack. Plays tug of war with the leash. I cannot get her to to listen no matter what I do. She pulls me across the yard. I am not even going to attempt walking until I can get her to look at me . Our other dog will listen and walk "with me" when he wants to until he doesn't. He is an American Akita/American Bull dog if he sees something or wants to be someplace he's gone, I'm flying thru the air, for real !! He is 2 y.o.

  40. I never understood feeding the dog all the time through the whole training session. The point is to make that dog not pull on the leash while you're out walking with them and even without treats.

    I always treat my dog once or twice or maybe three times when I'm teaching him a new "trick" so to speak, just to make him understand what needs to happen but after he gets the hang of it I'm doing it without any treats.

    Not saying this is wrong or harmful in any way, I just personally have never gotten as good results with the treats than without them.

    And of course every dog can be different, others may absolutely require a lot of treating while training when others don't even care about the treats and just want to be praised for good behaviour.

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